Opera coats! Brocade! Velvet! Big glamour is back for party season

详细摘要

It’s all about faded bohemian drama this season — embrace the flapper look with beaded slips and statement coats, says Jessica Burrell

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Tis almost the season to up sticks from the sofa and drag yourself to a party or two. Obviously, the only way to survive it is to have an arsenal of increasingly fabulous outfits at your disposal. This year, the key is to embrace faded glamour, bohemian spirit and a little eccentric aunt energy.

The (somewhat niche) poster girl for party season 2026 is Auntie Mame, the comic film about an orphan who goes to live with his madcap aunt in Manhattan during the Depression.

Mame teaches her nephew to make martinis while wafting around in outré ensembles: embellished bodysuits, feather-trimmed gowns and floor-length crepe robes.

For a contemporary take, look to Alexa Chung’s recent Reformation collaboration, which featured a rich velvet “red carpet scarf” in shades of chartreuse and electric blue.

Other relevant reference points include anything and everything from Dries van Noten’s glistening AW26 offering and Taller Marmo’s Noir collection, modelled by Erin O’Connor.

“Pure nostalgia is setting the tone this season,” say Taller Marmo’s founders Riccardo Audisio and Yago Goicoechea. “We are looking back 100 years, decoding the Roaring Twenties and seeing a lot of fun and curious resemblances to our own 2020s. Cocoon shapes, butterfly sleeves, low waists, sequins, feathers, evening coats and opera coats are back.”

Leaning into this cinematic glamour needn’t mean entering costume territory. On the high street, there has been an influx of beaded dresses that nod to flapper style without going full Gatsby (the best are to be found at Zara).

The embellished velvet jacket will be another frequent sight; try one with silky trousers, or reverse the formula and pair a silk shirt with a velvet slip skirt. Failing that, look out for asymmetric, draped and caped silhouettes in rich fabrications.

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