Four Chefs, Four Journeys, One Table in Siem Reap

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Four chefs brought flavors from Costa Rica, Cambodia, South Africa and France to the table at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, each ...

SIEM REAP – Four chefs brought flavors from Costa Rica, Cambodia, South Africa and France to the table at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, each drawing on childhood memories, family traditions and the places that shaped their cooking.

Held on November 7 at one of Siem Reap’s oldest hotels, Raffles’ The Grand Table was more than a showcase of fine dining. Each chef used a signature dish to tell a personal story, bringing together ingredients and culinary traditions from different parts of the world.

For Costa Rican Memo Hernandez, executive chef at Raffles Grand Hotel d’Angkor, that story began in his childhood.

“How do I make a connection with my diners? How can they see me through my soul?” he asked while preparing a dish inspired by his early years.

His answer was a plate of Kep barramundi, cured and lightly smoked, served with burnt corn velouté, coffee and cacao fruit juice, lotus flower ash and coconut caviar.

“This dish talks about my life, and my journey through the many years of cooking,” Memo said. “It also celebrates the story of my mom and her aunt who only cooked with firewoods all her life.”

The memory of cooking over wood fires in Costa Rica remains vivid for Memo. He has brought elements of that experience into a dish that also draws on Cambodia's tropical setting and locally available ingredients.

The barramundi combined smoky, savory and slightly bitter notes, with the accompanying ingredients adding depth without overwhelming the fish. It was a taste of Memo's past, reworked with ingredients from his present home.

A former student of the Paul Dubrule School of Hospitality and Tourism, Doeurt chose Nom Banh Chok, one of Cambodia's best-known traditional dishes. Originally from Kralanh district, about 60 kilometers from Siem Reap, he grew up preparing the dish with his family, handling the fish and grinding spices by hand.

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